by Air
The easiest way of getting around Cambodia, considering the state of the country's roads, is via internal flights. There are several domestic airlines, including Royal Phnom Penh Airways, Siem Reap Airways and newcomer President Airlines. Booking at least a couple of days ahead is advisable as flights can fill up quickly.
Airport taxes currently stand at USD8 for domestic flights and USD20 for international. This is often payable on departure, but may be included in ticket prices or (according to some reports) simply not asked for. Most international flights to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap arrive from Asian destinations such as Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong and Singapore.
by Train
Gone are the days when it was free to sit in the front carriage of the train, taking your chance of being blown up when the train hit a landmine. Nowadays train travel is a lot safer, although painfully slow - by road to Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh takes around four hours whereas the train takes up to 13. In spite of this, more and more visitors are taking advantage of the incredibly cheap train fares, but mostly only for shorter distances.
Until relatively recently foreigners were not allowed on the trains, but that particular ban is no longer enforced. You should note that foreigners do pay more than locals for their fares (usually double), but the rate is still so low that there's little point making a fuss about it.
There are only two lines, both extending from Phnom Penh. As well as the southern route to Sihanoukville there is another track running north to Battambang.
Foreigners are often still the centre of attention on Cambodian railways - although an increasing number of back packers and low budget travellers can be seen on services. The standards onboard are not very high. Foreigners at least will be ushered to one of the carriages with seats, the bulk of the train is often made up of flatbed or covered freight wagons, upon which people sit. The discomfort is made up for by the sheer variety of the experience however. Trains stop at towns and villages to allow salesmen and food vendors onboard.
Whether wanting to catch a train or not it is worth visiting Phnom Penh's train station. This bright yellow building is a great example of French colonial architecture. To obtain a train ticket go along here in person a day or so before you want to travel. Hotels may offer to arrange tickets for you, but you'll pay a hefty surcharge for the convenience.
by Bus
Buses and coaches are the mainstay of the national public transport network. They range from super-modern vehicles to ones that by all rights should have been scrapped years ago. All are privately operated from local bus stations. You are advised to try to buy your ticket in person as far in advance of travel as possible. Budgeting on longer journeys is a false economy, buy the best class of seat you can on the most modern bus; as well as giving yourself a lot more comfortable a ride you're not taking a valuable space on a bus that might be the only one a local can afford.
Air-conditioned buses from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville run regularly from Psar Thmei, the Central Market. Buses to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam also depart from here. For other destinations in Cambodia, Ho Wah Genting (Tel: +855 (0)23-210-359) offers bus services from Phnom Penh to nearby destinations using modern buses. Some of the guesthouses in the main cities now organise mini-buses for long-distance travel to other provinces. These cost considerably more than local transport but are still easily affordable for most travellers.
Urban transport is not a feature of Cambodian daily life. Phnom Penh's first public transport system - a limited bus service - was inaugurated in 2001. It provides cheap transport around the capital but is yet to displace the Motodops and taxi services that provide navigation as well as transport around the city.
An increasingly popular alternative for those wishing to enter Cambodia overland is by buying a "seat" in a truck. The seat is often nothing more than a space in the back of the truck often among all sorts of produce and livestock. The ride may be uncomfortable on the boneshaking roads, but it's cheap and a great way to meet the Khmer people.
by Car
If you arrive by plane and you want to hire a car there are good possibilities at the several airports. Click here to check or book cars at every airport.
The roads in the main cities are full of Westerners behind their 4-wheel drives, but these are NGO workers, not travellers.
For visitors, the only car hire possible in Cambodia is that which comes with a driver. These taxis are available for single journeys, or for hire by the day. Most fares are negotiable, but the going rate for a day's hire is between USD20 to USD30, dependent on bargaining skills. The official taxi rate from the capital's Pochentong airport to the city centre currently stands at USD7.
Many of the taxi drivers speak a decent level of English, and occasionally French. When you find one who is reliable and whose taxi is in good condition - keep him. A decent taxi driver is an invaluable asset to getting around, even in Phnom Penh where you have a better chance than elsewhere of getting around independently.
You should note that it is most convenient to travel everywhere in a city via taxi, motodop or bicycle rickshaw. Prices are low enough to make it practical and seeing as most places seem to be navigated by name rather than address it's the easiest way to locate anything. If you're going to the Killing Fields, take a taxi rather than a motorbike, as the road is very potholed and dusty.
by Boat
For many locals, travel on Cambodia's waterways is a way of life. For visitors, there are several options to take to the water but, as a foreigner, expect to pay more for your passage. One of the most popular routes is the fast boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, which takes around five hours, depending on the season. If you take this route, it's not advised to sit outside during the trip - it's almost impossible to climb back inside once you're out there, which you might feel like doing as the water can get very rough and it's freezing cold.
There are also fast boats to Kampong Cham, Kratie and Stung Treng from Phnom Penh, and between Siem Reap and other towns across the Tonle Sap Lake. The slower boat services are cheaper but are consequently overcrowded and are best avoided due to safety concerns.
